Saturday, June 09, 2012
Santana Hawaii Tandem Tour
Stoker Kim and I
participated in the Hawaii tour over St. Valentine's Day in February 2012. The tour was organized by Bill and Jan
McCready, owners of Santana Tandems.
Stoker Kim and I have
previously taken three tours with Bill and Jan: The Black Forrest of Germany
and Alsace, France; Tuscany, Italy; and the upper Danube River (Germany,
Austria, the Slovakia and Hungary). All
were great tours but I decided to take more independent tandem vacations since
then.
The Santana tours are
first-rate. But they usually include a
larger number of participants than I prefer and they are very structured. I'm not complaining about that because most
people want to do a lot of activities with their vacation time and I think Bill
and Jan have decided to cater to the active tandem vacationer. Each day is usually filled with biking,
planned meals in special places and other assorted activities.
Personally, I decided that I
prefer self-guided tours where a tour company sets us up with suggested routes,
activities, and hotels and takes care of moving our luggage from place to place
as we move along. All of those things
are suggestions instead of requirements and, with the exception of needing to
get to the planned hotel along the route on the assigned day, we are on our
own. I have done successful self-guided
tours in Burgundy, France and the Lakes Region of Italy and intend to do more
touring this way.
But Stoker Kim saw the Hawaii
tour on the Santana list and wanted to go.
Hawaii is my favorite place so it didn't take much convincing to get me
to go. But we knew the routine and
pledged to do the activities we wanted to do and skip the activities that
didn't appeal to us without regret or worry.
This tour started in Maui
where we assembled bikes and took a short shake-down ride the first day
followed by an evening catamaran dinner cruise. Day two started early with a bus ride from
our hotel at Kaanapali up Haleakala volcano to observe the sunrise after which
we were reunited with our bicycles (trucked up to a meeting place) followed by
the all down-hill ride to the town of Paia where we loaded the bikes into the
truck and bussed back to the hotel.
 |
| Bill's pre-ride brief on the first day after assembling our bikes. Bill and Jan are center in the photo. |
 |
| Boarding the catamaran after our ride on the first day. |
 |
| The view of Lahaina from our catamaran cruise. |
 |
| Sunrise on Haleakala. |
 |
| Stoker Kim ready to start our down-hill Haleakala ride. |
 |
| Linda and Larry Black used a drag chute to help control their speed down Haleakala. It actually worked. |
 |
| The road down Haleakala. |
 |
| Stoker Kim and I riding around Paia after our Haleakala down-hill. |
 |
| Beautiful views are easy to find around Paia. |
Day three started early with
a short dawn ride from our Kaanapali hotel to the pier in Lahaina where we
loaded bikes and people onto a boat for the crossing to the island of
Lanai. There we had choices of
activities including hitting the beach or riding up the volcano that is Lanai and
across the crater to Lanai City. We were
able to spend a couple of hours at the Four Seasons Resort beach on beautiful
Manele Bay where I went for one of those wonderful ocean swims where I can see
coral, fish and other objects of interest as I go along. After that I met up
with Stoker Kim on the beach and she and Linda Black rode the bus up to the Koele
Resort which lies on top of the volcano and across the crater where we had a
mini-golf tournament and lunch. Larry
Black took over stoker duties on my tandem and we rode my Bruni tandem the
short but steep (1,600-ft. of elevation gain) to the Koele Resort.
After lunch we re-paired up
with our normal stokers and rode the almost-all-downhill route to the
industrial harbor where we boarded the same boat for the crossing to Molokai.
 |
| Entering beautiful Manele Harbor on Lanai. |
 |
| The climb up the dormant volcano that is Lanai. |
 |
| Larry Black stoked for me up the volcano to Lanai City. If I had known he was wroking so hard I would have down shifted. |
 |
| I let Larry rest and check his email at a cafe in Lanai City as reward for doing such a great job getting us up the volcano. |
 |
| Mini golf at the Koele Resort on Lanai. |
A brief bit about Molokai:
Molokai is the most rural of the Hawaiian
Islands. It doesn't seem to have changed
much since I first met Stoker Kim there in 1985. My ship went there from Pearl Harbor for a
family cruise just prior to leaving on a western Pacific deployment. We gave ship tours and diving demonstrations
at the harbor in Kaunakakai and almost all of the locals that I spoke with
during our trip remembered the visit of the USS Reclaimer (ARS 42). Since it was a family cruise it has always
struck me as appropriate that I returned to Pearl Harbor with my future family
(Stoker Kim).
Molokai will not be
everyone's choice of vacation locations as it is very rural. We landed at Kaunakakai, loaded the luggage
onto a pick-up truck and biked the three-miles to the Hotel Molokai, the only
hotel on the island. Some major resort
chains have built resorts on Molokai but they have all failed. It seems to be too remote and the crowds
don't go there which is just fine with the residents.
 |
| Hotel Molokai is comprised of these units. |
 |
| The King's coconut grove on Molokai. |
 |
| Sunrise at Hotel Molokai. |
The next day the Santana
plan was to ride to the Halawa Valley at the eastern-most point of the island
and hike to the Moalua waterfall. We
knew that this wasn't going to work for us as Stoker Kim's knees wouldn't
tolerate the hike. Our plan was to leave
with the group, ride as far as we wished and turn around. We rode into a very stiff head-wind and I
quickly began to feel fatigued from a combination of jet-lag, late nights spent
working and the previous day's swim and strenuous biking on Lanai.
We made it about 15-miles to
Father Damien's lovely chapel, where we stopped with the group for some
memorable photos, and on another mile or so a store and eatery. We stopped there to get something to eat with
the hope that it would provide me with some magic energy. It didn't work and I broke the news to Stoker
Kim that I was done for the day. We
returned to the hotel with the wind thankfully at our backs and took the rest
of the day off to rest. It was a good
decision and I felt rejuvenated the following day.
 |
| Father Damien's church. |
 |
| The statue of Father Damian at his church. |
However, we didn't
participate in the planned activities the following day either as the Santana
plan was to ride up major hills to the mule barns at the Kalaupapa visitor's
center. There they mounted their steeds
and rode down the steep sea cliffs to the Kalaupapa Leper Colony.
Kalaupapa is a very historic
and meaningful place and visiting there would be very worth the effort. I get it.
But the mule ride didn't appeal to me so we invoked our pledge not to
participate in activities just because they were on the schedule and developed
our own plan for the day. We slept late
and then rode with new friends Dan and Patti Planker (Indiana) and Joe and
Kathy Nehl (California) to a local in-land eatery followed by coffee and a trip
to the Hoolehua post office where you decorate coconuts and mail them home for
your friends to find in their post boxes in a few days.
 |
| The Hoolehua post office is not pretty but it is lots of fun (Photo from TripAdvisor since I didn't take one). |
 |
| Our bikes waiting outside while we were decorating coconuts to send. |
 |
| Our group after not riding mules down the sea clifs to Kalaupapa. From left: Dan, Patti, me, Joe, Kathy and Stoker Kim. |
This was Friday which, at
the Hotel Molokai, means Aloha Friday.
About thirty local musicians (singers, ukuleles and guitars) come to the
hotel and play, accompanied by impromptu hula dancers, for two hours for
half-priced drinks and pupus. Hundreds
of locals turn out for Aloha Friday and it is special. My guess is that there are very few places
where this event could happen every week and Molokai is one of them. It was fun to experience it.
 |
| Local musicians at Aloha Friday. |
 |
| More local musicians at Aloha Friday. |
 |
| Local hula dances, both male and female. |
 |
| More local hula dancers. |
That brings us to the final
day of our tour. The plan was for us to
get up the next morning, disassemble and pack our bikes and then take the
commercial ferry from Kaunakakai back to Lahaina. We packed up after breakfast and had time for
a kayak ride down the coast back to the hotel for lunch followed by the bus
ride to Kaunakakai for the ferry ride back to Lahaina.
The ferry ride was the most disappointing
aspect of the trip. Not because it was
so rough. That happens. But because Bill and Jan allowed the cases
with our bikes to be loaded on the fantail portion of the ferry exposed to the
elements. And the element I am most
concerned with was the ocean. The aft
portion of the ferry was awash for most of the trip due to the extremely rough
seas and the bike cases were constantly being soaked by sea water.
By the time we got underway
there wasn't anything I could do to help the situation. Shortly after getting underway we got into
the rough seas and Stoker Kim and I sought refuge in the comfortable padded
passenger seats in the ferry's interior.
I went into my "anti-seasick Zen mode" where I get as
comfortable as possible, close my eyes and think happy thoughts. This technique was honed during many nasty
days at sea. Once implemented it takes a
lot to make me seasick as long as I am not disturbed from this semi-vegetative
state.
But, even being in my
"zone" I could hear two major events happening around me: fellow
passengers getting sick and other passengers talking about our bike cases being
submerged in sea water. There was no
chance of moving the cases now as the decks and the passengers were heaving
with equal frequency and intensity. I
had to ride it out and wait for that sweetest of times when a boat enters the
harbor from rough waters.
Once safely back at Lahaina
I went to the fantail to view the scene.
The area and the bike cases were soaked with sea water. When I asked Bill and Jan why they allowed
this to happen their responses made me feel as if I needed to reenter my Zen
trance:
Jan: "There is nothing
we could do. What do you expect us to
do?"
Bill: "Spray it down
with WD 40."
Oy. I’m talking here about bicycles, many of them
sold by Bill and Jan, costing up to $20,000.
And that is the best you can do: a recommendation to spray them down
with WD 40. Sea water is fatal to
expensive to bicycle parts and tubes and I was shocked at what I perceived to
be cavalier responses to my concerns.
Once ashore we had to
quickly unload the ferry because there were people waiting at the pier to
foolishly take the return voyage into the gaping maw of hell that the Molokai
Channel was that day. I wished them luck
as we hurried to get all of our luggage and bikes onto the pier where we loaded
into a bus for the trip back to the Maui hotel or the airport for those who
were departing that night.
I don't know the fate of my
fellow traveler's bikes. I was lucky as
my bike was in two cases: one with the frame and the other holding the wheels. Luckily the frame case was stored in a dry
location in the interior of the ferry.
The wheel case was doing submarine duty on the fantail and the inside of
the case was wet with sea water.
But that wasn't too bad as
wheels are much easier to clean than all of the nooks and crannies of the
gears, cables, bearings and widgets associated with the frame. I would be interested in hearing if others
experienced problems with the salt water, especially the guy who had his bike
packed in a cardboard shipping box. I
can't imagine that story had a happy ending, but please post a comment to this
blog if you wish to provide us with that information. I know that some of my fellow tourers feel
that I was overly concerned about this situation and over reacted. If so, you are welcomed to post a comment to
express your thoughts.
My opinion can be summarized
by responding to Jan's question:
"What do you expect us to do."
I’m glad you asked. Jan, since
you and Bill were in charge of the tour (and no one told us our equipment was
going to be put at risk on this trip) here are some suggestions:
- Warn your
clients that their bikes may be subjected to a sea water bath and to not
come on this tour if they are concerned about this.
- Suggest
that they bring a tube of silicone sealant and duct tape to seal their
cases prior to rough-water crossings.
- Insist
that the ferry agree to place the bike cases in a dry place during rough-water
crossings.
- Bill and Jan had a great local helper on Molokai. If the channel is roiling arrange to leave the bikes with and pay him to ship them back to us via UPS
There are four things that
you could have done. Maybe the lack of concern
for our bikes was due to this being the end of the tour. Maybe Bill and Jan slipped slightly prematurely
into a relaxed mode and were just along for the ride by this time. But the tour wasn't over until we got back to
the pier in Lahaina and I feel that you let me down.
This is more disappointing
because it was such a great trip and this one "aw crap" wipes out
many "atta-boys" that were earned along the way. It was a great trip except for the
unfortunate ending.
Stoker Kim and I took the
tour bus back to the hotel in Kaanapali where we spent the night and moved the
following day to Mama's Fish House in Paia.
We had to move because the Kaanapali hotel, the Grand Hyatt, kicked us
out since they got a better deal and cancelled our reservation. Really.
I have never had that done to me before, but they did it.
So, we lost a day of our
vacation packing and moving the approximately 50-miles to Paia. However, it turned out to be a blessing in
disguise as Mama's Fish House was great and Paia, located at the base of
Haleakala, was the perfect starting point for my single-bike ride from the sea
to the summit which I chronicle in my next blog post.
Please feel free to comment
especially if you participated in the tour and have a comment or opinion on the
Molokai to Lahaina ferry crossing.
Especially the guy with the cardboard bike shipping box (no offense
intended, I am bad with names). How did
that work out for you?
 |
| One final sunset from the Hotel Molokai. |
Thanks for reading.
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